Yogyakarta: All You Need to Know to Visit The Royal City

Posted by Wagner Nogueira

27/09/2018

Yogyakarta? You mean Jakarta, right? No! I really mean another city on the Island of Java, and what a great city it is!

A Brief History of Yogyakarta

The history of Yogya, or Jogja, extends all the way to the 8th Century, as the Mataram Kingdom. The Kingdom was established by King Sanjaya, as per a scripture dated from 732. The inscription was found near the border between the Hindu and the Buddhist areas of Java.

16th – 18th Century

Later, moving to the 16th Century, the area became the Mataram Sultanate. It established itself as the greatest kingdom in Java, expanding its reach further into the Island of Java.

In the 18th Century, a Civil War broke out between two brothers, heirs to the throne of the Sultanate of Mataram. The elder brother of Prince Mungkubumi decided to cooperate with the Dutch East India Trading Company, or the VOC. It allowed them to take over Java and submitting to the Dutch powers. The younger brother, the Prince, was against the deal and fought to keep sovereignty. He won the civil and established the Kingdom of Yogyakarta, occupying the former Mataram Sultanate.

Prince Mungkubumi later established the Yogyakarta Sultanate and named himself the Sultan of Yogyakarta.

19th Century to the Present

In the early years of the 19th Century, the British occupied Java and attacked the Sultanate by surprise. The took control of Yogya in one single day. The people of the Sultanate no longer trusted the Sultan and riots broke out in the city.

The Dutch controlled Java for a few hundred years, up until WWII, when the Island was controlled by Japan. When the Axis was defeated, Indonesia became an independent country, and Yogyakarta became a Special Region of Indonesia. This did not last for long and Yogyakarta was incorporated into the Republic and became the capital of Indonesia from 1946 and 1948.

Due to the importance of Yogyakarta to the history of Indonesia, it became a Special Administrative Region. Yogya is currently the only region in Indonesia headed by a Sultan (in theory, it is still a Sultanate).

Yogyakarta – How To Get There

Jogja is a large-ish city, with about half a million people living there. It is home to the 6^th busiest airport in the country, (IATA: JOG) so reaching Yogyakarta is very easy and cheap. It also has a very well located train station.

By Plane

The airport is supplied by daily flights from most major airports in Indonesia, including Denpasar in Bali, Surabaya, Makassar, Bandung, Jakarta, Mataram-Lombok, amongst others. It is connected internationally to two cities: Kuala-Lumpur and Singapore. It makes it very convenient for travellers coming from these two countries to start their trips in Yogya. Ticket prices start from as low as US$30 from Singapore (one-way). It is definitely the most convenient way to get to the Royal City.

From the Airport to the City Centre

There are different ways to go to Yogyakarta City Centre, they are:

Taxis

Taxis from the airport to the city centre (Kraton area) cost INR80,000. It is very important to book the taxis OUTSIDE at the arrivals hall. All taxi companies have stands at the baggage claim area, but they will cost twice as much. While I waited for the bags, my wife went outside to ask and confirm that outside prices were cheaper. Yes, they were… by a lot! So, do not book a taxi by the luggage carrousel.

Local Train

There is also a possibility of taking a train from outside the airport to the train station in Yogya. Although extremely cheap, around INR18000, it is very unreliable and it can take a long time for the train to come. So, if you have time to wait, it is definitely a money saver!

Public Bus

The public bus service, Trans Jogja, also supplies the airport. The fare is INR4000 per person, and it works pretty smoothly.

Booking.com

Grab or Go-Jek App

Download the apps Grab or Go-Jek before going to Yogyakarta. This will enable you to get cheap-ish fares to move around the city, particularly to and from the airport. The fare from the city centre (Kraton Area) to the airport will work out to be around INR60000 very late at night. Go-Jek will cost you around INR15-20000. It is worth it having the options!

By Train

The Island of Java and Sumatra are the only two islands in Indonesia where trains are available.

From Jakarta

There are up to 6 daily trains to Yogya, both in the morning and the afternoon. The entire trip takes around 7.5 hours and costs from INR150000 in economy class.

From Jakarta Gambir, trains leave at 8:00, 8:30, 16:30 and 20:15. From Jakarta Pasar Senen, trains leave at 6:15 and 6:45. Trains in Indonesia are known to not being too punctual, so expect delays.

From Surabaya

There are up to 6 daily trains from Surabaya to Yogyakarta. The trains leave at 07:00, 07:30, 09:15, 16:30, 17:00 and 19:00. The trip takes about 4.5 hours and the cheapest ticket costs INR215000. Economy class is not available on these trains.

Since the airport in Surabaya (IATA: SUB) has more destinations, including Labuan Bajo, Hong Kong, Taipei, even Jeddah, there are more flight options linking Java to the rest of the world, so it might be a possibility to choose Surabaya over Yogya, as it may result in fewer stop-overs during your trip.

From Other Destinations in Indonesia – No flight

There is a possibility to reach Yogyakarta from Sumatra and Bali. From Sumatra, there is a way to reach Java by reaching the town of Bandar Lampung, taking a bus and a ferry to reach Merak, in Java. From there, there are options to get a train to Yogyakarta. From Denpasar, there is the possibility of taking a bus to Gilimanuk, then a ferry to Banyuwangi and a train to Yogyakarta. Fore more details, check out The Man in Seat 61.

From The Train Station to Anywhere in Yogyakarta

From the train station, there will be no shortage of means of transportation for you to get anywhere. There are the buses Trans Jogja, becak (bicycle rickshaws), taxis or just a walk. The train station is located near Malioboro Road, a very upbeat part of Jogja, so you won’t be far from many places!

When to go to Yogyakarta

Yogya is located, as previously mentioned, in the Island of Java and, like most of Indonesia, it has to distinct seasons: Dry season (from May to October), and dry season (from November to April). The main monsoon downpours in Yogya occur in the months of December, January, and February. The precipitation at these months does not get any greater than 250mm during the month. These rains are characterised by tropical downpours, so they only come down for short periods during the day. There is still plenty of time to enjoy the sunny spells in between torrential rain! But for most of the year, Yogya is a great place to visit, with very little rain and a lot of heat!

Where to stay in Yogyakarta

There are many options for places to stay. Given the competition that is happening when it comes to hostels in the Royal City, the prices are very low, which is fantastic for backpackers!

While in Yogya, we stayed in two hostels. The first one, The Patio Yogya was one of the best hostels we have ever stayed. It was very well located, right in the middle of Kraton Area, with easy access to many different touristic attractions. The hostel includes breakfast and has a bath outside to chill in the heat of Yogya. It is definitely worth checking it out.

The Patio Yogya

The Patio Yogya is located in the central Kraton Area. Due to its location, it is easy to get to anywhere in the city by foot. The hostel is a bit far away from the train station, but it is close to everywhere else that the city has to offer.

The rooms are immaculate, with a maximum of four beds per room. So it has a ton of space for you to keep your stuff. There is the option of private accommodation in the hostel.

There is a large common area with a cold bath and bean bags for you to relax after a whole day’s walk. It is fantastic!

If you feel like cooking, there is a fully furnished kitchen, if you don’t feel like eating out. The owner and the staff at the hostel will help you with everything you need! They are great!

It is a fantastic hostel that is definitely worth it checking out if you are considering staying in Yogya!

What to do in Yogya

Yogyakarta has something for everyone. It is a fantastic place for history lovers, party goers, museum fanatics and more! There is a bit for everyone, so you will not be disappointed!

Templos

Yogya has had its share of rulers and each of them left their mark in the Royal City. The two main temples in Yogya are Borobudur and Prambanan. Both can be visited with a combo ticket, which costs US$40. Tickets can be bought at the entrance of either temple. It includes a cup of tea or a small bottle of water.

Borobudur

The temple of Borobudur is considered the largest purely Buddhist temple ever built in the world. What about Angkor Wat in Cambodia? Well, Angkor Wat was built as a Hindu temple, which was later converted into a Buddhist one. It is the largest Buddhist temple in the world, but it was not Buddhist from its inception. Borobudur was. It was built as a Buddhist temple and its purpose and religion have never changed.

It was abandoned in the 14^th Century after the Island of Java converted to Islam. It was found in 1814 and a huge restoration project, between 1975 and 1982 took place, which dug up the whole temple and replaced many of its broken and shattered pieces back into place. A huge jigsaw puzzle! Renovations are still underway, but most of the temple has returned to its former, original state.

There are over 500 images of Lord Buddha around the temple, with 72 surviving statues inside their own stupas. Some of which are fully exposed, some are still fully encased in them.

Borobudur is part of a large complex, with museums, presentations, Javanese Gamelan music shows. It is easily a place to spend one full day, if you have the time, of course.

When To Go During The Day

Visits to Borobudur start before sunrise. There are different places where you can see the sunrise. You can go to the temple itself, but there are more beautiful, less busy places where you can see both the temple and the Sun rising behind it. Our recommendation is at Punthuk Setumbu Hill. Given that it is in the middle of the forest, there is a high chance of fog. So beware!

It is a huge, well-detailed temple located not too far from Yogyakarta. As a Unesco World Heritage site and its importance, flying drones there is forbidden, so don’t even bother bringing yours!

How to Get to Borobudur

There are several ways to get to Borobudur Temple. It is not close, around 40km away from the centre of Yogyakarta. You can organise trips from the reception of your hostel/hotel. All of them will have connections with tour agencies, and they will organise everything from pick-up to the drop-off back to your hostel. The downside of this is that it can be expensive. Very expensive. Prices vary, from US$80 per person, including entrance tickets.

You can hire taxis, grab, go-jek (well, some motorbike drivers will take you all the way there, but it needs to be discussed). All these methods will save you a bit. Prices vary on time of day or your negotiation power (for private taxis). Becaks will not take you to Borobudur, so don’t even bother asking! It is too far!

Our recommended method is to hire a motorbike/scooter yourself. The rent can be as low as IDR50000 for 24hrs and gas is relatively cheap. You will spend less than US$15 on transport. But beware! If you are not comfortable with driving a scooter, do not go. Yogya is not a place for beginners! It is far and dark if you are going before sunrise. It will take you around 1.5hrs to get there and google maps will show you the whole way without a problem. Bring a jacket. It will be a very cold ride!

Hint: Check your helmets before leaving. Rented helmets have their visors badly scratched. This makes for a very difficult ride during the day, much worse at night. So, check it out before committing to the rent. If your vision is impaired during the day, you will be blinded at night.

While in Borobudur

While in Borobudur, you might be stopped by local students asking if they could talk to you. Local schools around Yogyakarta send students to Borobudur to practice their English with foreigners. It is a great experience to chat with the local youth and get a little bit of their perspective about their own country, their lives and, at the same time, helping them develop their education! What a great idea!

Prambanan

Prambanan Temple was built around the same time as Borobudur. It is a collection of several Hindu Temples in one very large and impressive complex. It was built in honour of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva. Smaller temples are dedicated to many other Hindu Gods.

The temple was abandoned not too long after its conception and destroyed due to several Earthquakes. It was rediscovered and through the effort of several organisations, it was rebuilt to its magnificent present state.

If you have been to Cambodia, you will see how much it is like Angkor Wat, showing very similar architectural characteristics.

How to Get to Prambanan

As described in the Borobudur section, there are different ways to visit Prambanan.

Prambanan is still inside the great area of Yogyakarta, in the city, so it can easily be reached by public bus and scooter. Because it is in the city, you will be driving through heavy traffic and intersections, so be very careful. Google maps will take you straight there, without too much trouble. The ticket price is included in the “Borobudur-Prambanan combo”. While it is great to see Borobudur during sunrise, it is highly recommended to see the sunset at Prambanan on the same day.

The drive from Borobudur to Prambanan is very long, around 3hrs, as they are in opposite sides of Yogya. So it is recommended to plan your day accordingly to avoid not spending enough time in one place.

Ideally, if possible, visit them on two different days and spend more time in each. But not everyone has this luxury!

Kraton Area

The Kraton Area, or the Royal Palace, is a formerly walled area in Yogyakarta where, as the same said, the Royal Palace was (and still is) located. It is the former residence and present-official seat of the Sultan of Yogyakarta.

The Kraton Area is located right in the middle of Yogyakarta, making it an ideal place to stay in Yogya. The main religion of Java is Islam, and its influence is particularly strong inside the Area.

The Area is of great importance, both politically and religiously, so while inside the walls, there are some special etiquette rules that need to be followed:

Dress code: Anyone within the wall of The Kraton Area must cover their shoulders and legs. The usual attire for visiting religious places around the world;
No shouting. The Kraton Area has many mosques and places of worship. So respect is crucial;
Holding hands or acts of public affection: Keep it PG13 while in the Kraton Area.

These rules are spread around the place. So you will always be reminded to follow protocol!

The Kraton of Yogyakarta or Pavillion

The Pavillion is the official seat of the reigning Sultan of Yogyakarta. It contains museums and some outdoor exhibitions inside. You might hear of the Pavillion as the place with the weird cars or something of the kind. This is because there are some very old Ford cars being exhibited there. That’s it! Three cars, in fact. There are some exhibitions of photos and Javanese Artefacts, which are worth checking out.

The entrance to the Kraton Pavillion is INR7000.

On another part of the Kraton of Yogyakarta, there are another complex of museums and exhibition centres, all located around the Kraton Klien, or State Government Offices. In these museums, you will find different aspects of the history of Java and Yogyakarta, including the influence that the VOC had on the local culture, all the way up to the present time.

From 9am to 12pm, there are some special exhibitions and presentations, including a large gamelan music group. The schedule changes, so ask the reception at your hostel.

Taman Sari or Water Castle

The water castle is a very beautiful complex within the Kraton Area that served many purposes. It was built as a resting place for the Sultan of Yogyakarta, defence area, baths, amongst other purposes.

Interesting fact: The main area, where the baths are located, is where the Sultan’s concubines would be located, waiting for him to choose one to accompany him, if you catch my drift.

Underground Passages

The Taman Sari, or the Water Castle, due to its strategic location, was connected to some areas by underground passages. These underground passages bring you straight to different points of interest but, in former days, they were used as a quick escape route to safe places around Yogyakarta.

Underground Mosque

One of the main attractions of area around Taman Sari is the underground mosque. The place has four staircases, and all staircases meet in the middle. It is accessible by another underground tunnel, very easily missed by tourists (believe me!). This place is still used for some Muslim rituals.

Malioboro Road

Slightly different from the typical historical sites around Yogya, Malioboro Road provides a more lively experience to the typical tourism and a well-deserved break if you are templed-out!

The street is highly commercial, but it is a great place for you to buy that last-minute gift you did not find the time to buy during your whole trip. There is plenty of street music, local shops, street food, western food if you are craving that burger that you haven’t seen for weeks… there is a bit of everything at Malioboro Road.

In the evening, it is the place where the youth of Yogya goes to hang out. It is even more upbeat during the evening.

Traditional Market Beringharjo

This is a great market to check out local things, including a lot of batik fabric (perhaps not the real deal, as you can imagine), but there is a lot of option in the market when it comes to gift shopping.

Other Place of Interest

As usual, we bit off more than we can chew and did not have time to visit a few places around Yogya. The city has a ton of temples and cool museums, so here is a list for our next visit:

Fort Vredeburg Museum: Near Malioboro Road;
Jomblang Cave: A huge and very impressive cave located close to Yogyakarta;
Hutan Pinus Pengger: A National Forest with beautiful natural sculptures. Great place for photos;
Ratu Boko Temple: On the way to Prambanan, there is a smaller temple that some say it is worth a visit;
Mount Merapi and Mount Merabu: Two great hikes to do on a day-out near Yogyakarta.

Costs

Going to Yogyakarta is great, as it is not an expensive place at all. Many tourists end up staying more than planned, both due to the cost and that they realise that there is a lot more to do. To be honest, I wish I had stayed longer. It is a fantastic place and it should be better explored.

The costs of our trip have been summarised in the chart below. The highest cost, by far, was the entrance to the temples, but they can’t be avoided, to be honest. Going to Yogya without visiting the temples is like going to Rio de Janeiro and not seeing Christ the Redeemer. It is definitely a must! Everything else turned out to be quite cheap! Have a look below:

Is there anything missing? Please do let us know so that we can always give you the best information for you to plan your holidays! Until next time!

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Notes

Note 1: There are some links in this post of our affiliate programs. We inform you that you will not pay anything more for using these links, but, we from “Mochilão a Dois” will receive a small commission from your bookings. If you like our work, please use our links and collaborate so that our blog continues to grow. We’ll be very happy:)

Note 2: The “Mochilão a Dois” had a complimentary stay at The Patio Yogya. Our opinions in this post were not influenced by the complimentary nature of our stay at the Hostel.